Zelda 3D Shadow Box with Master Sword from Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past for Nintendo in 16 Bit Style 5x7

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Zelda 3D Shadow Box with Master Sword from Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past for Nintendo in 16 Bit Style Diorama


Glitch Artwork: The original arcade shadow box!

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-The frame is 7" x 5", and is included.
-Solid wooden MDF frame with glass (not plastic)
-Ready to hang on a wall or stand on a table
-Best gift of all time for gamers and retrogamers
-I use only lightfast UV pigment inks and acid free materials for years of fade-free enjoyment

The 3D Zelda Shadowbox is made from meticulously cut prints and foamboard, with a lick of acrylic paint here and there. There are multiple tiers for a deep 3D effect that really pops. It looks more “poppy” once you get it in your hands.

This depicts Link finally finding the Master Sword.

The frame is 7" x 5", and is included. (The glass has been removed for the photos, but yours will have glass).
This may look pretty good on your wall. I recommend putting it up on a wall where you play your video games.

Want to see me build a shadow box? Copy and paste this YouTube link into your address bar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqlXTmJa_9A

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BEWARE OF IMITATORS??!
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Over the years since my I started making arcade shadow boxes, several new shops have started selling suspiciously similar products, with strikingly similar ad copy. Honestly, I’m a bit flattered that my ideas have caught on! The way they do their photography makes their products look a lot like mine, but they are more cheaply made, and therefore less durable.

HERE ARE A COUPLE QUICK WAYS TO SPOT AN IMITATION:
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-IMITATIONS DON’T USE FOAMBOARD—they use cardstock. Cardstock bends with humidity, and falls apart over time. It’s way cheaper and easier to use cardstock, but it will not hold up for more than a year in humid areas without bending up. It’s just fine to use unbacked cardstock if you only need it to last a little bit, like a party favor. I think art should last (especially if you’re giving it as a gift!), and I consider the longevity of the item in every single phase of the design and construction. Quality thick foamboard like mine doesn’t bend over time, and gives the piece a more 3D chunky look.

-IMITATIONS DON’T USE GLASS IN THEIR FRAMES—they use plastic. Plastic frames are cheaper to get, and cheaper to ship, but scratch way more easily and don’t look nearly as clear. Glass is very easy to clean without scratching, and doesn’t yellow or warp like plastic. It’s worth the extra care and packaging to ship glass frames. Remember, if the listing doesn’t specifically say GLASS, then it’s not GLASS!

-IMITATIONS USE LESS EXPENSIVE GLOSSY PRINTS instead of lightfast archival-quality pigmented inks. It’s way more expensive (and time consuming!) to print with professional quality inks, but I feel it’s worth it to prevent fading over time. Also, the matte look these quality inks have doesn’t have bad glares or reflections, so you don’t have to worry about your lighting hitting your art from a bad angle.

-IMITATIONS HAVE WHITE EDGES. Several of my beloved imitators don’t bother to blacken the edges of their cuts, so they have a cheaper look. That white edge I see on pretty much every imitator is very jarring and ugly to me, so I make sure that all my edges are the correct color to match the look of the piece. I have to paint the edges of the foamboard.

Yes, it’s WAY more work. Yes, it’s totally worth the extra work. :D


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